Wet Feet, Warm Connections: Camino Le Puy Days 18-23

The Camino Le Puy continues to throw its mix of surprises, challenges, and unforgettable moments at me. Over days 18 to 23, I found myself soaked, chilled, and sometimes downright grumpy, but also stumbling into some of the most unexpected and serendipitous encounters. From leaving behind a piece of pottery that symbolized fear, to meeting people who knew a good friend of mine from back home, the Camino once again proved that it has a way of guiding you through both the highs and lows. Here’s what the last leg of my journey has looked like so far.

Day 18

Wet & Hangry into Moissac

When I left I could feel the rain coming.  It was just a little too cold and a little too breezy.  A few miles in, I encountered a tiny little chapel where two pilgrims were breaking camp from the night before. a friend asked me to leave behind a rock symbolizing fear, I felt this was the right place to do it.  Although I chose to leave behind a piece of pottery instead of a rock.  The pottery is a creation of humans, like fear.  The rock gave fear a permanence that I didn’t feel justified.

After the clouds decided to burst, I encountered two pilgrims at a road crossing.  They were NOT taking the pilgrim route and let me know that I could save 5 km following the road.  We formed a little “poncho train” walking the final two hours along the road.  It turns out that this couple went to college with my good friend “Raver” whom I mentioned in my last blog.  Small world…. The odds of this are hard to calculate but after some back and forth I’ve settled on 1 in 5,000,000.  Anyone want to book a $2 bet that this will happen again on my next Camino?

Day 19

Walking the Canal to Auvillar

I planned on going farther but I just didn’t want to…. I got a couple new blisters from the wet day yesterday so that’s one excuse.  But in reality I just wasn’t feeling it.  You could call it a Camino low.  I think the lack of a social group was impacting my spirits.  I was also cold.  I’d given my jacket to Rick back in Cahors.  Then I melted a couple of shirts in the dryer leaving me with only a couple of layers.  The Fall winds and rain left me chilled.  The obvious answer was to keep walking since that was the only time I was warm but I could not wrap my head around that.  My brain kept finding the easy way out. 

I went to the tourist information office in Auvillar.  This is an amazing resource for people.  They always so helpful.  She helped me find accommodations for the next day in Miradoux.  Another woman offered me a basket containing wrapped items that looked like candies.  I politely declined and she politely insisted.  I took one which turned out to be a quote:

“Your soul knows the geography of your destiny and the map of your future.  Trust this side of yourself.  It will take you where you need to go, but it will also teach you a kindness of rhythm in your journey.”

Yes this quote represents the essence of the Camino but the mention of geography and map spoke to me. It definitely lifted my spirits.  

I was also soon thereafter contacted by my friend Ricardo.  He invited need to dinner where it turns out we had to say goodbye.  He was going further than I the next day.  His presence would continue to be felt as he would send gîte recommendations.  One which was life changing…

Day 20

Wandering into Miradoux

This day started a little late.  By the time I wandered out of Auvillar it was 9ish and most people were probably on their way.  But today was the day I would start seeing the same faces for a while.  Most of the people still in the trail were older, 65+. There were a few youngsters, usually German or French.  

I got into a groove and my place was strong.  My fitness is very high and I pushed hard up the hills, passing everyone. I’m starting to get now as the guy who walks slowly on the flats but flies up and down the hills.  

I meet an Australian couple at coffee stop and a young German guy along the trail.  Otherwise the walk into Miradoux was unremarkable.

In search of a beer, I stumbled upon a gîte still serving lunch.  I inquired and she offered me lunch of green beans (French-cut of course), potatoes and baked-in-butter chicken.  Wow.  My best meal yet.  

Afterwards I found my gîte (typical check in is 3pm) and was greeted by the smiling face of Marylin.  She and her husband Michel had remodeled an old farmhouse.  As luck would have it, I was their only guest.  They welcomed me with a beer, and reminded me that a digestif would be served about 7:15 before dinner.  Dinner?  Even though I wasn’t at all hungry, dinner sounded good.

Dinner was AMAZING.  A homemade digestif with olives followed by four courses of deliciousness and another digestif - Almangnac - like Cognac but someone smokier and fruitier.  Today I was stuffed.  Quite possibly my first calorie-positive day on the Camino.

The conversation, in “Frenglish,” was fun and the topics were broad (Trump & Macron, children, motorcycles, Florida, football, wine and food).  

Day 21

To Lectoure 

It was sad to leave my new friends but that’s the Camino…. The walk to Lectoure was uneventful.  Corn on the right.  Sunflowers in the left.  A church here.  A church there…. Has my Camino run its course.  

Patrick and I ran into each other again in town and sat to have a beer.  I failed to eat during the French allotted time for lunch WHO’s hours are defined as “midi” (around noon). I settled for a DIY sandwich from the fromagerie.  I checked into my gîte which was run by a woman from Panama.  The other guests were a newly formed Camino couple that I met along the canal a few days ago.  They were now bussing due to blisters, but I got a strong sense that that was just an excuse to spend more time together.

Day 22

Le Romieu

Another wet walk today.  But a lot of it was paved and it didn’t really start raining until the last 90 minutes.  Walking into town there was a beautiful Botanical garden but it was, wait for it, closed (surprise!).  I suppose this is what happens when people only work 24-30 hours per week.  Yes it’s great work life balance but they’re under-serving the tourists!

Cold again.  Had a nice goat cheese salad while waiting for my gift to open.  My gîte was great.  A bar, bookstore, music shop tended to by Laurent.  The only issue was I forgot to get the late-entry code for the door.  Fortunately Laurent was watching his phone…

Day 23

Slipping into Condom

Gross right!  The walk was a muddy mess.  But I was looking forward to the evening.  Ricardo  had recommended Gîte Au Plaisir D’étapeHosted by Philip and Corinne.  I sat with some friends and enjoyed a couple of beers while waiting for it to open.  When we arrived, we were greeted by Philip who insisted we have a drink before being shown our rooms.  The aussie couple was there as well.  

I could go on forever but the highlight of the stay was dinner.  Per the norm, we started with a digestif and introductions around the table.  Patrick the German, me the American, Janine and Paul the Aussies, a mom and daughter from France, two other solo French folks, two neighbors and Philip and Corinne.  12 in total.  I cannot capture in words the character that is Philip.  The start of the show.  Quite possibly he could have replaced Chuck Barris hosting the Gong Show.  By the end of the night the whole table was singing along with Patrick playing the guitar.

Two things to note.  First this reminded me of the magic of the Camino.  People doing what they love and sharing the experience with others doing the same.  This is the “community” aspect of the Camino that I remembered from last year.  It’s special, and hard to describe.  A mom and daughter sharing this experience one week at a time is as special as then sharing it with new friends like Patrick and I and the Aussies, and the sharing amongst old friends like Philip and his neighbors.

The second was more personal.  Here is where my Camino Le Puy has to come to an end.  I have urgent and important matter to attend to that has taken my vibe away and my time.  I need to focus for a few days before meeting Rick at St Jean Pied de Port as he crosses the finish line. But what a way to end.  Laughing, shining, sharing a meal and giving a commitment to Philip that I will return here to finish my Chemin.  

Camino le Puy, a Recap

More days…More miles…More steps…

300ish miles in, I decided to take inventory of my body.  In general, I’m very well.  Feeling strong and fit with no complaints.  My distance have decreased and I found that after 12 -14 miles I have no soreness, anywhere.  I’m probably not pushing myself enough, but as the French say, « C’est la vie ! »

Legs

Feet - resilient AF, not sore but I have three huge days in Spain coming up.  My shoes are a major disappointment this year.  More on that at a later date.

Toes - a few blisters, and an ingrown toenail.  Not making any money selling pictures online.  

Ankles - minor stiffness and aches in the mornings, especially in the Achilles, but overall have grown very strong. 

Lower legs - Shin splints have all but disappeared

Calves - these go largely unnoticed by me, and if i feel them working, then I’m not walking right.  However they do look good!  Lots of comments on my tattoos.  

Knees - Amazing.  Strong.  

Thighs - I tend to stretch the quads and hammies and find these have grown quite strong and lean.  If I only had two more inches here and in the lower legs…

Torso 

Butt - could bounce a paint can off of it…. Years ago, I learned that walking up hill is the job of your ass.  It’s been working hard.

Man parts - highly under utilized… and going unnoticed!  Major disappointment.

Waist - Shrinking with lots of room for continued improvement

Insides (Liver, Gall bladder, pancreas, spleen, kidneys, etc) are doing their job dealing with daily alcohol intake.

Colon small and large.  Seems quite content while walking.  Appendix is still lurking like a neighbor you didn’t realize was a serial killer until the local news shows up.

Stomach -  hasn’t complained much via acid reflux.  Pefers hamburgers and Caesar salads.

Heart & Lungs - winners.  I enjoy passing people while going uphill.  

Chest - could benefit from more pushups, but one step at a time 

Arms 

Shoulders, Upper & Lower arms - could benefit from dumbbells but I’m not carrying that extra weight.

Wrists - minor tendinitis in my left wrist from using walking sticks.

Hands & Fingers - still there.  Still working normally.  

Head

Mouth - Getting better at speaking French.  Has developed a taste for blonds (beer!)

Nose - given its size, you think it would be better at picking up scents but no, it’s function seems limited to getting adequate air into the lungs

Eyes - my font isn’t set as big as my sisters but I do need readers to function

Ears - starting to pick out words from French sentences

Hair - highly reflective, no need for a hat.

Brain - is wandering a lot.  Give it a week when I cross into Spain.  Oui —> Si, S’il Vous Plait —> Por Favor.  Then back to France.  Then off to Portugal Merci —> Gracias —> Merci —> Obrigado —> Gracias —> TBD