Modern Pilgrims Prepare to Walk. Earlier Pilgrims Prepared to Leave.
- Jon Croy

- Jul 14
- 10 min read

When modern Camino pilgrims talk about starting the Camino, we usually mean a city.
Sarria. Porto. Tui. León. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Ferrol.
We compare routes. We count days. We book flights. We wonder whether we should start with the last 100 kilometers or push ourselves to do something longer. We ask questions like, “Can I get enough time off?” “Should I carry my pack?” “How much training do I need?” “Do I need trail runners or boots?”
All good questions.
But they are very modern questions.
A pilgrim of the old Camino probably did not ask, “Should I fly into Madrid or Paris?” They did not stand at baggage claim wondering whether their poles made it through security. They did not choose Sarria because it was the shortest distance that still qualified for a Compostela.
For many of them, the Camino began at the front door.
They left from the place where life had put them: a village, farm, town, monastery, manor, household, workshop, or market street. Their “starting point” was not selected from a guidebook. It was home.
That changes everything.
They were more used to walking than we are
One thing I do not want to do is paint pre-industrial pilgrims as physically helpless people stumbling toward Santiago in leather shoes and bad weather. In many ways, they were probably more accustomed to walking than we are.
Walking was not exercise. It was transportation. It was work. It was how people got to fields, markets, churches, neighboring villages, and family obligations. Their bodies were used to daily movement in a way many modern bodies simply are not.
I sometimes think about this when I’m training for a Camino. I’m trying to build something back into my life that used to be part of ordinary life.
That’s humbling.
But being used to walking is not the same thing as being ready for pilgrimage.
I may worry about blisters, lodging, heat, rain, and whether I brought the right charger. A pilgrim of the old Camino faced those worries too.
Well, maybe not the charger.
Though I suppose there was always the risk of forgetting to feed the raven, missing the weekly courier, or posting a letter that arrived six months after you got home.
Either way, they had bigger problems: hunger, theft, illness, exposure, bad roads, social vulnerability, and the very real possibility of not coming home.
So no, the earlier Camino was not easier because people walked more. It was harder because walking was only one part of the problem.
Modern pilgrims choose a starting point. Earlier pilgrims had to leave a life.
This may be the real difference.
Modern pilgrims ask: Where should I start?
Earlier pilgrims may have had to ask: Can I leave?
That is a much heavier question.
Leaving home in the pre-industrial world was not simply a travel decision. It could mean leaving behind crops, animals, trade, children, a spouse, aging parents, debts, obligations, or a place in a household economy where every person’s labor mattered.
For a farmer, leaving could affect survival.
For a merchant or artisan, leaving could interrupt income.
For a servant, tenant, monk, wife, apprentice, or dependent, leaving might require permission.
For a poor pilgrim, leaving meant dependence on charity, monasteries, pilgrim hospitals, churches, strangers, and luck.
And as I have said many times on the Camino, luck is what I bring to the table. But I’m not sure I’d want to test that theory in the year 1200.
Nobody walked the same Camino
It is tempting to romanticize the old Camino as some perfectly equal spiritual road where everyone became the same once they put on a cloak and started walking.
Maybe spiritually, there is some truth there.
Practically? Not a chance.
A wealthy pilgrim and a poor pilgrim could both be walking toward Santiago, but they were not walking the same Camino.
A noble pilgrim might travel with money, horses, servants, escorts, letters of protection, and access to better lodging.
A cleric might have literacy, religious status, and connections through monasteries or church networks.
A merchant might understand roads, towns, markets, and the business of travel.
A poor pilgrim might have faith, determination, and very little else.
Same destination. Very different journey.
Women walked too, but their Camino would often have carried different risks and constraints. Some traveled with family, servants, religious groups, or other pilgrims. Some may have needed permission from a husband, household, religious superior, or community. Some were widows or women of means with more freedom than others. But for many women, leaving home meant navigating not only the physical danger of the road, but also the social expectations of the world they were leaving and the vulnerability of the world they were entering.
That part deserves more attention than a single paragraph, but the point is simple: gender, money, status, health, age, and social position all shaped the Camino.
They still do.
The modern Camino is more accessible than ever, but money still changes the experience. You can stay in municipal albergues and cook your meals. You can stay in private rooms and ship your bag. You can walk every step. You can taxi around an injury. You can book everything in advance. You can wing it.
The Camino welcomes many people, but it does not erase economic differences.
It probably never has.
The Camino is not cosplay
This is where I want to be careful.
Learning from earlier pilgrims does not mean pretending to be one.
The Camino is not cosplay. We do not become more authentic by ignoring modern tools, refusing help, or making the journey harder just to prove a point.
Use the app.
Book the bed.
Send the bag if you need to.
Take the taxi if you are injured.
Call home.
Check the weather.
Find the pharmacy.
None of that makes the Camino less real.
It would be a little hypocritical to criticize a pilgrim for using an app on the Camino if we use maps, GPS, weather forecasts, contact lists, digital calendars, and online reservations everywhere else in life. Most of us do not carry a little black book of phone numbers and manually dial everyone from memory. We use the tools available to us.
Why would pilgrimage be the one place where modern tools suddenly become suspect?
Earlier pilgrims used the tools available to them too. They followed roads, asked directions, traveled with others, relied on churches and hospitals, accepted food, used letters of passage, carried symbols of protection, and sought help where they could find it.
That was not cheating.
That was pilgrimage.
The goal is not to recreate the hardship of the past. Modern life is hard enough as it is. The goal is to walk with enough openness, humility, and attention that the journey can still work on us.

Safety often came from other people
Another thing worth remembering is that earlier pilgrims often did not travel alone in the way we imagine solo travel today.
A modern solo pilgrim can walk alone and still be surrounded by infrastructure: maps, apps, signs, booking platforms, pharmacies, ATMs, emergency services, and the steady comfort of knowing people back home can be reached in seconds.
A pilgrim of the old Camino needed people more directly.
Other pilgrims provided information, protection, companionship, translation, shared food, shared stories, and sometimes simply the reassurance that the road ahead was passable. Traveling with others was not just social. It was practical. It was safety.
This is one place where the Camino feels both ancient and modern.
On my Caminos, I have often started alone and ended up connected. A dinner table. A shared beer. A familiar face from two towns back. Someone who knows where the next open café might be. Someone who saw you limping yesterday and asks how the foot is doing today.
The road has always created community.
The difference is that for earlier pilgrims, community was not just part of the magic.
It may have been part of survival.
The average modern pilgrim has extraordinary privilege
This is where I have to be honest.
Even a “normal” modern pilgrim often has access to more safety, mobility, information, and financial flexibility than many wealthy people in the past could have imagined.
I may not be traveling like nobility, but I have a magical rectangle in my pocket that can show me a map, translate a menu, find a bed, contact my family, move money, check the weather, book a train, call for help, and tell me exactly how many steps I took before lunch.
A medieval noble would have loved that thing.
Actually, a medieval noble might have declared it witchcraft, taken it from me, and then asked whether it could also find a decent room in León.
The point is that modern Camino privilege is not just about comfort or luxury. It is about reducing unnecessary suffering.
A phone keeps us connected to people who love us. A credit card gives us options when plans fall apart. A pharmacy can turn a painful problem into a manageable one. A taxi can keep an injury from becoming a crisis. A weather forecast can help us avoid a dangerous day. A translation app can turn confusion into a conversation. A flight home is a fallback earlier pilgrims could not have imagined.
These tools do not make the Camino less real.
They make some forms of suffering less necessary.
Most of us are not walking with servants, horses, or letters of protection, but compared with pilgrims of the pre-industrial Camino, we are walking with a level of support that would have been unimaginable.
That does not make the modern Camino easy.
It does make it different.
And that difference is worth acknowledging, not apologizing for.
The risks were not romantic
I love the Camino. I believe in the Camino. I think it changes people.
But I do not think we need to romanticize suffering.
The old Camino was not more meaningful because it was more dangerous. It was not purer because people had worse shoes, fewer choices, and a higher chance of dying on the road.
That is not inspiration. That is just hardship.
A modern pilgrim with tendonitis can find a pharmacy, take a rest day, call a taxi, change lodging, text a friend, or fly home.
A pre-industrial pilgrim with a serious injury had a much smaller room for error.
A fever could become life-threatening. A robbery could leave someone stranded. A storm could turn into exposure. A wrong road could become dangerous. Food and shelter were not guaranteed. Medical help was limited. And the walk to Santiago was only half the journey.
Like Neil Armstrong, the mission was not just to get there.
It was to get home.
The arrival mattered, of course. Santiago. The cathedral. The emotion. The relief. The prayers. The tears.
But arrival was not the whole mission.
A pilgrim still had to survive the road back to ordinary life.
That may be one of the oldest Camino lessons of all.
The reasons for walking were different
Modern pilgrims walk for all kinds of reasons.
Some walk for faith. Some walk after grief, retirement, divorce, illness, burnout, or a major life change. Some walk because they need space. Some walk because they are tired of being the version of themselves that answers emails all day. Some walk for fitness. Some walk for wine, tapas, and the occasional magical conversation with a stranger.
No judgment. I have walked for several of those reasons, and for reasons I didn’t know were there until I walked.
Earlier pilgrims also walked for many reasons, but the religious frame was much stronger.
They walked for penance, healing, thanksgiving, devotion, vows, obligation, salvation, or hope. Some were deeply called. Some were sent. Some may have been walking out of desperation. Some probably had no idea what they were really looking for until the road started working on them.
That part has not changed.
We often think we know why we are walking.
Then the Camino gets a vote.
Age changed the experience
Modern Camino pilgrims are often older than we imagine.
Today, it is completely normal to meet pilgrims in their 50s, 60s, and 70s. Some are retired. Some are recently divorced. Some are grieving. Some are celebrating. Some are trying to prove something to themselves. Some are not trying to prove anything at all. They just finally have the time.
That is one of the beautiful things about the modern Camino.
It gives people a way to do something difficult, meaningful, and shared at an age when society sometimes starts quietly lowering expectations for them.
But in the pre-industrial period, older pilgrims were less common. Not absent. Just less common.
A person in their 60s would have been considered genuinely old. For someone that age to leave home, walk across long distances, face the risks of the road, reach Santiago, and return home would have required unusual durability, resources, support, luck, or all of the above.
So the age comparison is not just about biology.
It is about social structure.
Modern older pilgrims can walk because they often have retirement, savings, transportation, guidebooks, medical care, lightweight gear, pharmacies, mapped routes, luggage transport, and a Camino infrastructure built around contemporary travel.
Earlier older pilgrims had far fewer protections.
Readiness meant something different
For the modern pilgrim, readiness often begins with the body.
Can I walk the distance?
Can I manage hills, heat, rain, blisters, fatigue, and a pack?
Can I recover overnight and do it again?
Those questions matter. I spend a lot of time thinking about them.
But the pilgrims of the old Camino remind us that readiness has never been only physical.
For them, readiness included leaving home, arranging obligations, securing permission, finding resources, trusting hospitality, joining other travelers, facing danger, and accepting uncertainty.
Modern pilgrims prepare to walk.
Earlier pilgrims prepared to leave.
That may be the sentence I keep coming back to.
Because leaving is still part of it.
Even now, with apps and flights and private rooms and better socks, the Camino asks us to step away from ordinary life. It asks us to carry less. It asks us to live with uncertainty. It asks us to pay attention. It asks us to meet people without all the normal armor. It asks us to find out what happens when our plans meet our feet.
And sometimes our feet have opinions.
What earlier pilgrims can still teach us
I do not want to recreate the old Camino.
I like hot showers. I like pharmacies. I like clean water. I like knowing that if things go sideways, I have this magical thing in my pocket that gives me access to help, maps, money, transportation, and people who love me.
That is an extraordinary privilege.
But the earlier pilgrims do remind us of something important.
The Camino has always been more than mileage.
It has always involved the whole person: body, mind, resources, relationships, obligations, courage, faith, fear, and hope.
That is still true.
A modern pilgrim may not face the same dangers as a pilgrim walking from home hundreds of years ago, but the deeper question remains surprisingly old:
Can I leave the life I know long enough to discover something I need?
That is why readiness matters.
Not because the Camino is impossible.
Because it is meaningful.
And meaningful things deserve preparation.
Not preparation that removes all uncertainty. That is not possible, and honestly, it would ruin part of the Camino.
But preparation that gives the journey room to work on you.
That is why I wrote, The Camino Readiness Guide and created the online tool, The Camino Readiness Path.
Not to make the Camino smaller. Not to remove uncertainty. Not to turn pilgrimage into a checklist.
But to help modern pilgrims prepare well enough that the journey has room to work on them.
Because getting to Santiago matters.
Getting home changed matters even more.



